Culture


19
Aug 11

Traditional Japanese Ghost Stories, Part 3

Summer is the season of Obon in Japan, so it’s high time for another look at a traditional Japanese ghost story. This time we’ll take a look at Botan Dourou and the two most common versions of the tale.  Also known as “The Peony Lantern,” Botan Dourou dates back to the 17th century in Japan, although it may have been derived from an older Chinese tale. There are two versions of the story with some major differences: the earlier Otogi Boko version and the Meiji-era theatrical version (also known as the Rakugo or Kabuki version). Both versions feature a gorgeous woman ghost named Otsuyu, who wanders past a man’s house each night carrying a peony paper lantern. She is also accompanied by a young woman ghost. (The woman is her maidservant.)

In the earlier version, an older man, a widower samurai named Ogiwara Shinnojo, is the man who spies Otsuyu each night. Struck by her beauty, he falls in love with her. He does not know at first that she is a ghost. Every time the sun sets, she visits with him, but she leaves before the sun rises with no explanation. When a snooping neighbor spies the woman visiting Ogiwara each night and thinks that there’s something odd about her, he peers into Ogiwara’s bedroom one evening and finds Ogiwara making love to a skeleton. The neighbor tells a Buddhist monk, who warns Ogiwara to stay away from the woman or he will die as well. The monk places spiritual protective barriers around Ogiwara’s home. When Otsuyu returns that evening, she cannot enter the home. She calls forlornly for Ogiwara to come out and join her. Despite the warnings, Ogiwara is too much in love with her to resist. He exits his safe home and follows Otsuyu back to her “home”: a grave. In the morning, Ogiwara is found dead in the open grave. He’s embracing a skeleton.

In the later version, Ogiwara is replaced with a young man named Saburo, a medical student rather than a samurai. Otsuyu’s story is fleshed out–and it turns out that she and Saburo were in love when she was alive. Otsuyu, daughter of a wealthy widower samurai, was sent in life to live in a small home with a single maidservant after the samurai remarried and his new wife did not like Otsuyu. When a doctor visits Otsuyu to check in on her, he takes along his student, Saburo. Saburo and Otsuyu are instantly smitten with one another. Otsuyu begs Saburo to visit her often–and tells him she will die if he goes too long without seeing her–and he promises he will visit her. However, social decorum of the time mandated that he not visit an unwed woman alone, so Saburo relied on tagging along with another of the doctor’s visits. However, the doctor refused to go back, knowing that Saburo had fallen for Otsuyu and disapproving of the match. (In some versions, Saburo falls ill for a long time and becomes bedridden for months. He cannot get a message to his love.)

Otsuyu dies of a broken heart and her maidservant dies in grief at the loss of her mistress. The pair become ghosts who stroll past Saburo’s home at night carrying a peony paper lantern. Saburo does not know his lover has died, so he’s overjoyed by her nightly visits. In this version, another servant of the house spies Saburo in bed with a skeleton. He tells a Buddhist monk, who gives Saburo the news that his love has died and shows him her grave as proof. Grief-stricken, Saburo retreats to his house and the Buddhist monk places protective barriers up to block out the spirits.

Otsuyu and her maidservant continue to visit Saburo at night but cannot enter the home. Hearing Otsuyu sadly call for him makes Saburo more heartbroken and over many nights, he loses his will to live. Other servants pity the sad, dying man and one night remove the protective barriers without Saburo’s knowledge. That night, Otsuyu once again enters the home and makes love to Saburo. He is found dead in the morning with her skeleton in his arms, but he is smiling and content.

Have you ever heard of Botan Darou? Have you seen a movie or stage version? Which version do you prefer, the earlier or the later version?


12
Aug 11

Radio Taisou: Daily Exercises

Every morning at 6:30, the NHK radio airwaves plays a special tune and encourages residents of Japan everywhere to join together for a special 5-10-minute workout. Communities gather at local parks, employees at offices arrive early to exercise before the work day begins, and kids who get to school early for sports team practice join together to workout. In the summer, schools, parents, and communities encourage young children to head to the local park and participate in the morning exercise. In many areas, a volunteer instructor will stamp a participation card for each morning a kid comes to the session in the summer; if the kids fill up their cards, they get participation prizes.

These morning exercises are called “radio taisou,” or “radio calisthenics.” There’s also an afternoon version that airs at 3:00. Some companies have their workers drop what they’re doing to stand and perform the exercises. There are two kinds of exercises: those for younger, more energetic people and those for everyone else. The basic exercises is mostly a series of stretching routines, a simple “warm up” to get the blood flowing and the mind more alert for the day. At most sites, a volunteer will lead the group in the workout. After many days of repeating the stretches, you may come to remember how to do them yourself.

Radio taisou began in Japan in the 1920s. The Japan Post newspaper and NHK Radio started the project, although they may have been inspired by MetLife’s American radio exercise programs that appeared around the same time. The radio taisou briefly stopped after World War II, when American occupiers thought the masses getting together for a daily workout was too militaristic in nature. However, the program was reworked in the 1950s and focused more on exercise and bonding with co-workers, classmates, and members of the community. They’ve aired consistently since.

See an example of the radio taisou in a park here.

Have you ever participated in radio taisou while in Japan? Do you like the idea of a short daily exercise you do together at work, school, or in the neighborhood? Why or why not?


29
Jul 11

Japanese Comfort Dishes

Warm foods like chicken soup and vitamin-rich foods like oranges help Westerners clear up their sinuses and build their immunities. When ill in Japan, there are a few cultural comfort foods to which many people turn, much like chicken soup in the West. Whether you want to do as the Japanese do should you fall ill in Japan or your love for Japanese food will give you comfort during an illness, try Japanese comfort foods. (These foods are for colds and other mild illnesses. If something more serious is wrong, seek medical attention.)

Kayu: Also known as okayu, kayu is a warm rice porridge. Since rice is such a staple of the typical Japanese diet, it’s not surprising that rice porridge is more popular than oatmeal, although the concept behind enjoying a warm, easy-to-digest porridge is much the same. You can enjoy kayu on its own or with cooked meat, steamed vegetables, or with cooked or raw egg. Add tea and you have chakayu. Making kayu is as simple as boiling rice and water with a touch of salt until the rice is mushy.

Negi miso: Green onions called negi are another antidote for feeling under the weather in Japan. Vitamin-rich negi can be steamed or enjoyed raw. One particular dish made for the ill with negi as a main ingredient is negi miso. Miso is a Japanese flavoring often used in soup. While you can add chopped negi to a miso soup to make a version of negi miso, the most easily digestible form of the dish for the ill is a negi miso drink. Just boil water with miso flavoring and add chopped negi.

Shogayu: Another hot drink for the ill in Japan is shogayu. Shoga, Japanese ginger, is thought to provide many health benefits, including upset stomach relief and a boost in immunity. Shogayu is a simple drink to make; add a pinch of grated shoga and a dash of sugar to a mug and then add hot water.

Fruit: A common gift in Japan for an ill person is fresh fruit. You may notice in Japanese TV shows that a friend or family member attending the bedside of a person in the hospital will peel an apple for the patient to eat.

Do any of these dishes sound appetizing to you? Do you think they make good meals when you’re ill?


22
Jul 11

On the Train: What the Japanese Find Rude

Some aspects of rudeness are practically universal–calling someone a rude name, for example–but others vary by culture. If you hope to spend any time in Japan or you meet Japanese people, you may benefit from a quick lesson in a few things the Japanese find rude. You’ve read about a few ways to be polite to the Japanese. Not following these simple rules of etiquette may make you come across as rude. Today we’ll discuss what Japanese people find to be rude behavior on the train. (By the way, sleeping on a train isn’t considered that rude–but most people would do it on a bench instead!)

Don’t speak on your cell phone on a train. This may surprise you since the Japanese are perhaps more attached to their cell phones than even the rest of the world (and they’re a few years ahead of the rest of the world in cell phone technology). However, speaking on your cell phone in Japan is considered rude because it distracts other people. Trains are also notoriously crowded; sometimes there is barely any room to move. You would bother a lot of people to speak on your cell phone. If you must contact someone, text instead of speaking. The “don’t speak on your cell phone on a train” rule isn’t even an implied rule–most trains explicitly request this and post a message throughout the train. Incidentally, keep your voice very quiet if speaking to someone with you on the train. In general, people do not like to hear conversations on trains and often regard foreigners as loud people.

Don’t eat on the train. This is messy and rude. If possible, avoid drinking as well, but if you feel the need (which is not surprising if the train is hot and crowded), a sip of a bottled non-alcoholic beverage is okay. Just make sure not to bump anyone when you get your drink out. On the same note, don’t leave a mess of any kind on the train.

Keep your hands up in crowded trains. In extremely crowded trains, some Japanese men grope unsuspecting women and young girls who can’t identify who in the crowd touched them. To avoid accusation, honest men find it easier to hold onto railings with both hands or to clutch the railing with one hand and an object with another. This shows the women around them that they wouldn’t touch them. Most foreigners aren’t suspected of this behavior, but it doesn’t hurt to show your hands. Also, if you’re male, pay attention to “women-only” cars on some trains. These cars, as the name implies, are for women only and are a courtesy to make women feel there is less risk of sexual harassment.

Have you ever ridden on a Japanese train? Can you think of a few other rules of etiquette on the train? What do you think of the fact that women are sometimes groped on trains?


15
Jul 11

Shinjuku: Tall Buildings and Entertainment

In a first for the “Places” entries about Tokyo, we’re looking at an entire special ward of Tokyo: Shinjuku. This ward is the home of Shinjuku Station, not only Japan’s but the world’s busiest train station. You’ll also find the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building, one of the tallest buildings in Japan and the seat for the local Tokyo government.

Among the more culturally appealing attractions of the area are the Japanese Sword Museum and a number of parks. The Japanese Sword Museum, which offers English-language information about the exhibits, has over 150 swords on display. You’ll also find Japanese armor. The Shinjuku Gyoen (Park) is especially crowded during the hanami season because of the spectacular view of blossoms.

Shinjuku is also known for an expansive array of shopping opportunities. A number of department stores have an anchor store in Shinjuku and you’ll find mini malls as well — stores and malls such as Iseten, Odakyu, Takashimaya, Mylord and Lumine. Popular electronic stores include Yamada Denki and Yodobashi Camera.

If you’re looking for food, you’ll find a plethora of cheap, tiny restaurants in Omoide Yokocho. (It’s sometimes called “Piss Alley,” but the food isn’t all horribly cheap!) The mini malls and anchor stores have slightly higher-class restaurants so you can grab a bite while you’re shopping.

Kabukichou is in Shinjuku as well. Kabukichou is Tokyo’s “red light district” with adults-only entertainment. That’s where you’ll find a large share of love hotels and host and hostess clubs. Unofficially, you’ll find over 1000 members of the yakuza, the Japanese mafia, as well! Shinjuku Ni-chome is Tokyo’s best known gay district, with gay bars and gay host clubs and love hotels.  You’ll find plenty to do during the day and during the night in Shinjuku!

Have you ever been to Shinjuku? Are you more interested in shopping there or spending time at nightclubs?


1
Jul 11

Jankenpon: Rock, Paper, Scissors

Since what we know in the West as “Rock, Paper, Scissors” (or “Stone, Paper, Scissors”) was developed in China, it shouldn’t be a surprise to discover that the game exists in many countries around the world. The sheer amount you see the game played in Japan, though, particularly on Japanese TV shows, may surprise you. It helps if you’re familiar with the Japanese take on the game in case you’re ever asked to play. You will see the game played to determine who wins something, like a flip of a coin, or just to pass the time.

In Japan, the game is called “jankenpon” or “janken” for short. The game is usually played for the best of three. The rules are similar to “Rock, Paper, Scissors” in that you make the same fist for “rock,” peace sign for “scissors,” and flat palm for “paper.” Paper still beats rock, rock still beats scissors, and scissors still beats paper. The players begin the game by shaking their fists up and down in tandem three times, revealing their choice of rock, paper, or scissors on the third beat. In Japan, you say “jan” on the first beat, “ken” on the second beat, and “pon” on the third beat.

If the players both throw the same choice and the round is a tie, they say, “Aikou deshou” in three beats (“ai-kou-deshou“) and play again, shaking their fists up and down on each beat and throwing their new choices on the third beat. This means “one more time!” However, you can keep saying it and keep playing again and again no matter how many times you tie thereafter.

Some, but not all, games of “jankenpon” are more complex, particularly when played on Japanese game shows. During this version of the game, the players are seated at a table. On the table is one toy hammer (a plastic collapsible squeaky hammer) and one hardhat. The two players play a round of “jankenpon” but the person who throws the winning choice of rock, paper, or scissors doesn’t necessarily win. Instead, the loser must scramble to grab the hardhat and put it on his head. The winner must grab the toy hammer at the same time. The winner is trying to hit the loser on the head with the toy hammer before he successfully puts on the hardhat. If she does hit him, she wins the round. If the loser puts the hardhat on before the hammer hits the top of his head, no one scores the point and the players go back to playing jankenpon.

Have you ever seen Japanese people play jankenpon, with or without the hammer addition? Would you rather play jankenpon or flip a coin to settle a debate?


24
Jun 11

Pan: Japanese Bread

Elsewhere on the site, we’ve discussed manju, “steam buns,” and briefly, we mentioned anpan as well. A look at Japanese food wouldn’t be complete without a more in-depth look at Japanese bread. Due to early Portuguese influence, the Japanese refer to bread as “pan,” the Portuguese word for “bread.” Pan was introduced to Japan by Westerners in the 19th century and did not exist in native Japanese cuisine beforehand. While sandwiches like we’re used to in the West are still less common than rice dishes in Japan, there are a number of Japanese foods made with pan.

The anpan, as previously mentioned, is sweet bread filled with sweet filling. It’s definitely more of a dessert than a meal. However, like manju, there are hearty meal fillings for pan as well. Curry pan is filled with Japanese curry, katsu pan has fried pork cutlets inside (yes, fried, breaded pork inside of the break), croquette pan has a croquette inside (a croquette is fried mixture of potatoes and other vegetables as well as potentially meat and seafood), and yakisoba pan is filled with yakisoba–fried noodles!–and ginger. Operating as both a dessert and a potential meal depending on your mood, the fruit sandwich is another common Japanese sandwich. Fresh-cut fruit is layered in bread with a yogurt cream.

Panko refers not to a sandwich-like treat but to a form of breading. Panko is a popular coating for fried meats, seafood, and vegetables. Panko is a lighter, crisper texture than other Western breading. This is unsurprising due the fact that Japanese bread tastes different than Western bread.

When you order a hamburger, you have to make sure that you’re in an American-style restaurant if you’re looking for a hamburger on a bun. Most Japanese hamburgers are served as patties on plates without bread. Until about the 1970s, foreigners in Japan looking to make hamburgers had a hard time finding hamburger buns!

Have you ever tried Japanese pan? Do you prefer the dessert breads or the meal breads? Do you like hamburgers without buns?


17
Jun 11

Common Japanese Superstitions

Knock on wood, don’t open an umbrella indoors… All cultures have superstitions and the Japanese are no exception. If you spend time in Japan or even if you just watch Japanese TV shows and movies, you may notice a few superstitions that aren’t familiar to you. Of course, like with most people, most Japanese take these superstitions with a grain of salt.

Sneezing: In the West, you may have heard the superstition that when your ears ring, someone is talking about you. In Japan, a similar superstition is that when you sneeze, someone is talking about you. If you’re like most people, you tend to sneeze more than you suffer from ringing ears, so perhaps a lot of Japanese people are talking about you!

Floating tea stalk: Tea is important to traditional Japanese culture. Traditionally, tea is brewed with tea leaves. One Japanese superstition says that if you notice a green tea stalk floating vertically upright in your cup, you will enjoy good luck.

Upset catfish: In some areas of Japan, a long-standing superstition dictated that when catfish began acting strangely, an earthquake would soon follow. Ancient Japanese who came up with this superstition may have been on to something; some scientists believe that the fish act strangely due to their ability to sense the changes in the earth before humans. However, long before scientific research, the Japanese used to believe the catfish caused the earthquakes! (One particular large catfish, the Namazu, was to blame.) You’ll notice catfish associated with earthquakes even today; the early earthquake warning symbol includes a catfish.

Death and four: In Japanese, the word for death is “shi.” One pronunciation of the number four is also “shi.” So rather than being afraid of the number thirteen, the Japanese are leery of the number four. Some buildings, like hotels and apartment complexes, avoid having a floor or a room numbered four (whether it’s truly the fourth floor or room or not). The dislike for four extends into basic parts of Japanese life, too. For example, when you give someone a gift, make sure it’s not four of an item. (Fruit, dining ware, etc.)

Have you ever encountered these Japanese superstitions? What other Japanese superstitions do you know?


10
Jun 11

Ueno: Museums, a Park and a Zoo

In the east area of Tokyo, another of Tokyo’s wards, Taitou, is home to Ueno, a famous destination for tourists and Japanese culture enthusiasts alike. Ueno Park is one hotspot in the area that houses quite a few of Ueno’s biggest attractions.

There’s the Ueno Zoo, a 35-acre area. Opened in 1882, Ueno Zoo is Japan’s oldest zoo and is also home to the country’s first monorail, which you can ride to get around the zoo. Almost 500 species of animals–a total of around 2600 animals–call Ueno Zoo home. Their most popular animals include two giant pandas who arrived in February of this year.

Also in Ueno Park are three museums: The National Science Museum, Tokyo National Museum, and the National Museum of Western Art. The National Science Museum is ideal for science enthusiasts and people who love to see the progression of technology over time. The museum houses exhibits from pre-Meiji-era Japan as well as from modern times. The Tokyo National Museum is the oldest museum in the country and has been open since 1872. The museum focuses on Japan’s history and culture through ancient artifiacts and art. The National Museum of Western Art is newer; it’s been around since 1959. The museum remains the country’s only national museum that houses only foreign Western art from Europe. You’ll find works by artists such as Monet, Van Gogh, and Picasso at the museum.

Ueno also houses many buildings in traditional Japanese architecture, such as Buddhist temples like Bentendo and a Shinto Shrine called Toshogu.  A famous temple during the Tokugawa shogunate, Kaneiji, resides in Ueno Zoo. There are a number of ponds within the park as well, including the famous Shinobazu Pond. The Shinobazu Pond is featured in many works of art. Part of the Shinobazu Pond is called “the Lotus Pond.” So many lotuses grow in that area, that you can hardly see the water at times.

Many of Japan’s homeless congregate in Ueno, particularly around the ponds.

Have you ever been to Ueno? Which part of Ueno would you be most interested in seeing?


27
May 11

Rounin: “Wandering Samurai” in Modern Times

The traditional rounin is a wandering samurai–a samurai who lost his master, either to death or to his master’s fall from grace. Since the samurai’s entire life revolved around devotion to the master, the samurai loses his sense of of purpose. The “honorable” path for the masterless samurai was to commit seppuku (“harakiri”): ritualized suicide. Those who opted not to kill themselves wandered freely, taking mercenary, bodyguard, and odd jobs where they could. These samurai became rounin–a title that was less than honorable.

Today, rounin still exist, but they’re not samurai. Modern rounin are young adults who failed their college entrance exams but still hope to attend college. (In Japan, most colleges require that you pass an entrance exam, similar to middle and high school entrance exams.) Rather than take a full-time job, these young people devote the next year to studying as hard as they can in order to pass the entrance exam the next year. They may live with their parents or take on part-time jobs in order to pay rent, but their primary focus over the next year is studying on their own to pass exams. They may attend cram schools or hire tutors–usually students currently attending the school they want to attend who have obviously passed the entrance exam–in order to help them, but otherwise, they’re on their own and must keep up the motivation throughout the year.

Most colleges hold their entrance exams at about the same time each year (toward the beginning of the year; the school year begins in early April). Prospective students can take exams for as many colleges as they please during the entrance exam season, but most choose a handful of colleges so they can focus on the topics they think may be on those particular exams. (Each college makes up its own exams; the more prestigious the school, the more difficult the exam.) The exams are usually only held once a year–in fact,  prospective students usually don’t get a makeup exam if they miss it, so they’ll venture out even if they’re ill. Solely missing an exam can turn a student into a rounin.

Some prospective students continue to fail the yearly exams for the colleges of their choice and they continue to be rounin for more than one year. Of course, they can always decide to go to a less prestigious school with a less difficult exam or to skip college altogether, but since better schooling affords better career opportunities, many students don’t want to give up.

Would you become a rounin or would you rather go to a second-choice school or get a job? Would your parents support your decision?